In the field of beauty and skin care, what everyone is usually most concerned about is anti-aging, barrier repair, whitening, antioxidant, etc.
What lightens melanin?
1. Skin lightening ingredients---Niacinamide
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a type of B vitamin and is one of the most common ingredients in whitening products.
Its whitening mechanism is:
(1) Inhibits the formation of melanin.
(2) Inhibits the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes.
(3) Accelerates the transfer of melanin in keratinocytes to the stratum corneum and promotes the shedding of the stratum corneum.
Clinical observation studies show that niacinamide serum can reduce the number and extent of skin spots. Long-term use of skin care products containing niacinamide can accelerate the dilution of melanin and produce freckle removal and whitening effects.
However, it should not be used by lactating and pregnant women. Excessive use of nicotinamide may cause fetal malformations.
Use with caution if your skin cannot tolerate it. Niacinamide may contain the impurity niacin, which may cause skin redness, swelling, heat pain, allergies, etc. If you are using nicotinamide products for the first time, you can start with a low concentration to test whether you are allergic.
2. Skin brightening ingredients---Arbutin
Arbutin was originally discovered from Ursi Ursifolia leaves and is the main active ingredient in Ursi Ursifolia leaves. Ingredients used for whitening are also the main raw materials commonly used in whitening cosmetics.
In terms of activity, α-arbutin is 10-15 times more active than β-arbutin.
Arbutin can effectively inhibit biological tyrosinase in the skin and block the formation of melanin. In addition, arbutin can also directly combine with tyrosinase to accelerate the decomposition and metabolism of melanin. Arbutin can effectively reduce skin pigmentation and remove spots and freckles.
Arbutin is photosensitive. When its content is too high, it can cause skin conditions such as skin erythema, stinging, and eczema. Therefore, as a common whitening ingredient, it is safer to add arbutin within 2%.
Products containing arbutin should be stored in a low temperature and dark place.
3. Vitamin C and its derivatives
Vitamin C and its derivatives are known as free radical blockers and scavengers, which can directly eliminate free radicals that synthesize melanin to achieve whitening effects. However, water-soluble vitamin C (also called ascorbic acid) is unstable, easily oxidized when exposed to air, and is not easily absorbed by the skin.
Therefore, more stable vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbyl palmitate, are often added to skin care products.
Whitening ingredients all work around the mechanism of melanin production. However, different raw materials have different mechanisms of action, and their effects on the skin are also very different. For example, people with sensitive skin and weak skin barriers should carefully choose acid-based whitening products.
Reference
[1]. ANDO H, WEN Z M, KIM H Y, et al.Intracellular composition of fatty acid affects the processing and function of tyrosinase through the ubiquitin-proteasome pathway[J]. Biochem J, 2006, 394 (1):43-50.
[2].Shigeta Y, Imanaka H, Ando H, et al. Skin whitening effect of linoleic acid is enhanced by liposomal formulations[J]. Biol Pharm Bull, 2004, 27(4):591-594.
