What does niacinamide do?
1. Prevent melanin from depositing into keratinocytes
Nicotinamide can act in the process of melanin precipitation, preventing melanin from precipitating from melanocytes into keratinocytes. Hakozak et al. [5] conducted a trial on 120 patients with facial pigmentation. 18 subjects applied a moisturizer containing 5% nicotinamide on the face. After 4 weeks, the test results showed that nicotinamide significantly reduced Reduce facial pigmentation.
2. Improve skin synthesis of epidermal layer proteins
Niacinamide can synthesize epidermal layer proteins on the skin surface, improve skin texture, replenish skin moisture, etc. It was discovered in the 1990 European patent EP0-396-422 that if nicotinamide and UVA and UVB-containing sunscreens are added to the cream formula, 0.1%-5% of silicone compounds can be appropriately added to prevent the sunscreen from forming micelles. By reducing the sunscreen effect, the nicotinamide in the formula can be fully and evenly spread so that it can be fully absorbed and utilized.
The moisture content, pH value, acidic substances, storage conditions and other factors of cosmetics all affect the stability of nicotinamide, which will cause it to be converted into niacin.
Monitoring the changes in niacin content during storage and transportation of nicotinamide raw materials under 8 conditions for 120 days and simulating summer storage and transportation. It was found that light and high temperature will accelerate the conversion of nicotinamide in the sample into niacin. Cosmetics containing nicotinamide are transported in summer. stage is more likely to cause the nicotinamide in it to be converted into niacin.
Therefore, cosmetic grade nicotinamide should be stored and transported under low temperature and light-proof conditions as much as possible, and the transportation time in summer should be reduced.
Reference
[1]. Draelos Z D, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production[J]. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 2006, 8(2): 96-101.
[2]. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer [J]. Br J Dermatol, 2002, 147(1): 20-31.
