The cosmetics industry's discussion of skin care ingredients has shifted from the efficacy of individual ingredients to the overall formula system. Ingredient ratio has always been an important topic in cosmetics research and development, and is also an important factor in product competitiveness.
Antioxidant and anti-aging ingredients are common ingredients in various cosmetics. Classic ingredients of this type include: vitamin C, astaxanthin, coenzyme Q10, etc., while some new antioxidants such as ideben and fullerene, ergothioneine has also attracted much attention in recent years. Among them, ergothioneine, as a natural antioxidant and cell protectant, is mild and safe.
Is ergothioneine good for skin?
The mechanism of action of EGT in inhibiting melanin production or removing melanin is due to its unique structure, in which its sulfur atoms exist in the form of thione. Thiol-containing compounds are considered important melanogenesis inhibitors because they react with dopaquinone to form colorless conjugates.
EGT is a reversible tyrosinase inhibitor. In addition, other studies have also confirmed the inhibitory effect of EGT on tyrosinase, which is better than kojic acid and arbutin.
EGT in the thione state can filter, absorb or shield ultraviolet rays and produce bioactive effects, which may be one of the reasons why it prevents damage caused by ultraviolet rays.
In an article published in the journal Free Radical Biology and Medicine, the role of ergothioneine in the body's antioxidant defense system was studied.
Effective application and delivery of L-ergothioneine is enhanced through liposome encapsulation, which helps combat skin damage from radiation, free radicals and reactive oxygen species.
A combination of astaxanthin, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, and ergothioneine can synergize and exert antioxidant effects more efficiently.
Ergothioneine enters the mitochondria through the transporter OCTN-1 produced by the skin, directly scavenges free radicals and protects the mitochondria, so the skin can accumulate ergothioneine and use it. Secondly, ergothioneine can also inhibit lipid peroxidation and apoptosis induced by ultraviolet light.
Research results show that adding 0.01%-3% of ergothioneine in cosmetics can inhibit pigment formation and deposition.
In one test, after 4 weeks of using a lotion containing 0.5% ergothioneine, moisture content increased by 15% and elasticity increased by 20%. This all proves that low concentrations of ergothioneine also have certain skin care effects.
Reference
[1].Cheah et al., Ergothioneine; antioxidant potential, physiological function and role in disease, Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA)-Molecular Basis of Disease, 2012, 1822：784-793.
[2].Experimental and theoretical studies on inhibition against tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis by antioxidant ergothioneine.
